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Stop! You are rewarding your dog for pulling

Stop! You are rewarding your dog for pulling

What would you do if you were tied to the branch of a tree, feeling very very hungry and there was an apple lying on the ground just 2 feet beyond your reach?

Would you try to reach, stretch and pull to get access to the apple? If the branch gave in and bent enough for you to get the apple, would you try to reach another apple? Would you in fact try with even more determination than last time? Because your strategy worked once, do you now have faith that it will work again?

Anything that your dog wants is a reward while the dog still wants it. Imagine your dog wants to go and sniff a tree and pulls you towards it (with tension on the lead). Every step you take towards the tree becomes a reward for pulling. Your dog is learning that if it pulls you hard enough, for long enough, frequently enough… you will give in. Sadly, it is easy to end up in a situation where we have trained our dogs to be persistent leash-pullers.

Before we even discuss the strategies for punishing a dog for pulling, we must stop inadvertently rewarding the behaviour.

Dogs learn by observing patterns of what works and what doesn’t. Are you creating a pattern that teaches your dog that sometimes there’s a nasty consequence to pulling on the lead, but at other times it’s exactly what was needed? In that instance, it may take a very harsh punishment to convince your dog from pulling again next time. In fact, your dog will start to ‘gamble’ and fall for the temptation of testing out whether this time pulling might pay off. What this means is that you are creating a situation where your dog will continue to pull. You will need to use harsher and more frequent punishments in order to make it stop. Does this sound familiar?

So, first step in training a dog to stop pulling is never walk in the direction the dog is pulling. It is not fair to the dog to use punishments in the training, unless we have already become mindful and taken control of when we are (perhaps inadvertently) rewarding our dog.

Many Youtube clips will show you to stop if your dog pulls on the leash, and make it walk in a 360C circle around you before continuing. I, personally, find this approach time consuming and ineffective. Making the dog walk around in a circle holds no value as a correction (negative consequence). This method rarely creates a lasting change in the dog’s behaviour. It is however a good way to get the dog back into the correct position behind your leg. It’s great in that way for those times when you had already missed the right moment to give a punishment.

One punishment for pulling on the lead is to tighten the strap of a head collar or a training harness. But for some dogs I also find that ineffective or just too unpleasant.

In any case, I prefer to train the dogs to fully understand that I do not want them in front of me. I want the dog to choose to stay right behind my leg. I like to see a dog turn its head to check its position in relation to my leg and choose to draw back and avoid getting too far ahead.

Training a dog to walk on a loose leash behind my leg is one of my favourite things to teach. If you would like to walk down the street in a calm and relaxed manner, without any stress on your shoulder, then watch this video on how to achieve Loose Leash Walking. Even owners of hard pulling dogs will see a dramatic change within the first session. After only two sessions, most dog owners have mastered taking back the control of the walk.

Inquire here…

In Most Cases, Dog Aggression is Quick to Solve

In Most Cases, Dog Aggression is Quick to Solve

Have you ever considered that it’s not natural for dogs to socialize with strangers? Dogs are territorial animals and by nature attack or chase strangers away. Therefore, aggression doesn’t always stem from past bad experiences or personality traits. In fact, it mostly stems from lack of interacting with a stranger dog. Socialization with other dogs is something that we train against their instinct. Therefore it must be maintained.

Once two aggressive dogs meet and slowly get to know each other, they will be ready to interact and become friends. A familiar dog is a completely different concept to them than a stranger dog!

I work a lot with dog-to-dog aggression and no doubt, these are the most common scenarios:

The dog never socialized and never learnt that meeting stranger dogs can be fun. In fact the situation is overwhelming to them and they freak out in an aggressive fear reaction. This is typical for rescue dogs that have lived isolated in a back yard or on a rural property.

The dog has socialized, but it plays rough so the owners do not let it in the dog park. The dog is still young and the aggression is coming from a place of over-excitement rather than fear or anger. The dog’s adrenalin gets so high, that no other behaviour but barking and lunging is expressive enough! Once that initial excitement wears off, the dog’s desire to play shines through.

The dog goes to the dog park regularly, but it has become ball obssessed. While playing ball, it stopped interacting with other dogs. It is now aggressively protective of its ball. The aggressive attitude has developed into a generally hostile attitude towards other dogs.

The dog regularly goes to the dog park and happily plays with other dogs when off leash. However ON leash, it becomes aggressive and barks and lunges even at the sight of other dogs. This behaviour is very common for dogs that are protective of their owner, their home/ front garden or their own personal space. Being protective is natural to many breeds. It can also relate to the type of owner, the owner’s circumstances (pregnancies for example) and the dog’s own circumstances. The reaction is often connected to the dog thinking itself as being in charge of the walk.

It usually takes me anything from just a 1 hour private session to 3-4 days of aggression rehab camp to resolve any of the aggression issues above. The amount of time needed depends on the dog’s age, if it has been desexed, how long the issue has been going on for, and for how long the dog has been kept away from other dogs. If you have dog-to-dog aggression issues with your dog, please call us for a free and no obligation estimate on what it would take to resolve it for your dog .

It is such a joy for me to see dogs frolic around in the dog park, playing with other dogs for the first time after recovering from their aggressive phase. If you would like to see an example of my work with aggressive dogs, please check out the story about Abby the Boxer unfolding in several posts starting from the 11th of February 2016 on my Facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/Canine-Code-242826639078102/